Contemporary Jewellery: Heat-color as Design Language

当代首饰品牌的热着色设计语言

type:case-study · level:intermediate · material:copper · material:brass · material:silver · variant:torch · variant:thermal-oxidation · scale:jewellery · equipment:furnace · stage:patina · stage:sealing

标签:首饰, 设计应用, 品牌, 渐变色, 案例

独立首饰品牌近年把热着色从"瑕疵"升级为设计语言:0.5 mm 紫铜片先激光切割花瓣轮廓,再以细喷嘴在 250–300 °C 定区着色,使每枚花瓣呈"根部紫红、尖部金黄"的单向渐变,随后以 0.5 vol% BTA + 微晶蜡封护。批量化关键在定位夹具(jig):同一件 6 瓣花逐一着色,色差控制在 ΔE 3 以内。此类"火成色"单件零售 80–200 欧元,溢价源于电镀无法复制的手工渐变。

Independent jewellery brands have turned heat color from flaw into language: 0.5 mm copper petals are laser-cut, then zone-colored at 250–300 °C with a fine nozzle so each petal runs purple-red at the base to gold at the tip, sealed in 0.5 vol% BTA plus microcrystalline wax. A positioning jig colors the six petals of one piece in sequence, holding ΔE within 3. Retailing at 80–200 EUR, the premium comes from a handmade gradient no plating can copy. ---