Case: Contemporary Niello Watch Dial

案例:当代腕表乌银表盘

type:case-study · level:advanced · material:silver · material:copper · variant:sulfide · scale:jewelry · equipment:hand-tools · equipment:torch · stage:chasing · stage:patina · stage:sealing

标签:腕表表盘, 乌银, 高级制表, 案例

某独立制表品牌限量腕表(年产 200 只)表盘采用 925 银基 + 真乌银熔合工艺:盘面錾刻放射纹槽(宽 0.25 mm、深 0.4 mm)后熔填乌银,磨平抛光后放射纹呈黑亮细线。难点是表盘加热不得超过 150 ℃(防时圈变形与盘脚焊料回流)——采用局部热风 + 热台组合控温熔填。成品经 500 h 人工汗液测试无析出超标。单盘手工耗时 14 h,是「传统工艺进入现代工业品」的样板案例。

An independent watch brand (200 pieces/year) fuses true niello into hand-chased radial grooves (0.25 mm wide, 0.4 mm deep) on 925 silver dials; after leveling and polishing the rays read as fine black lines. The constraint is heat—dials must stay under 150 °C to protect index feet and solder joints—so filling uses local hot air over a hotplate. Dials passed 500 h artificial-sweat testing with no heavy-metal release. 14 h of handwork per dial: a model of craft entering modern manufacturing.