Copper + Leather: Fold-formed Closures for Vegetable-tanned Leather

铜+皮:折叠铜扣件与植鞣革的结合

type:tutorial · level:intermediate · material:copper · material:leather · scale:decorative-object · equipment:hand-tools · stage:forming · stage:finishing

标签:铜+皮, 折叠扣, 皮具, 混合材料

折叠成型的天然折缝自带弹簧回紧力,适合做皮具扣件:0.9 mm 铜片折出 S 形或书夹形扣舌,折缝替代冲压五金的弹片;与 3.5–4 mm 植鞣革连接采用缝合式——铜件边缘折出 2 mm 包边并冲 φ1 mm 线孔,用亚麻蜡线交叉缝入皮革,避免铆钉应力集中撕裂皮面。铜面做旧后上蜂蜡,皮革接铜处每季补貂油;折缝根部是应力最高点,量产前须做 500 次开合疲劳测试。

The natural crease of a fold works as its own spring, ideal for leather closures: fold 0.9 mm copper into an S or book-clasp tongue, the crease replacing a stamped spring. Stitch it to 3.5–4 mm vegetable-tanned leather—turn a 2 mm hem at the copper edge, punch φ1 mm stitching holes and saddle-stitch with waxed linen, avoiding rivet stress that tears the hide. Wax the patinated copper, feed the leather at the joint quarterly, and fatigue-test the crease root—the highest-stress point—for 500 open-close cycles before production.